When the bus arrived in Gongchuan, it was already night. Without a suitable place to live, I went straight to Yong 'an City. The next morning, I hurried back to Gongchuan. At this time, it was discovered that the road between Yong 'an City and Gongchuan just goes north along Shaxi, which is a very beautiful stream, and Gongchuan is at the intersection of Shaxi and Hugong River.
The earliest ancient building in Gongchuan is Zhengshun Temple at the crossroads. Zhengshun Temple is a sub-temple, which was built in the Southern Song Dynasty. The ancestral temple in Sanming City was dedicated by General Xie You in the Northern Song Dynasty. General Xie You is also known as the Emperor of the Sun and Moon. In the temple, Zhang Shengjun was worshipped with a sword in his hand and a snake around his neck. In the temple on the edge of Anzhen Fort in Yong 'an, Zhang Shengjun carries a long snake on his shoulder. It is also worth noting that there are six Qing dynasty ink paintings, four landscape paintings and one dragon and tiger painting in Zhengshun Temple, which are superb in painting skills, as if they were made by painters.
Go inside through Zhengshun Temple, and you will soon see another intersection, where there is a bamboo shoot gang public stack built in the third year of Qing Shunzhi. Most of them came to Gongchuan for this bamboo shoot gang. This is the former site of the earliest bamboo shoot industry association in China. Every year in the bamboo shoot season, bamboo shoot merchants from all over the world gather here to discuss business and set the bamboo shoot price this year. Unfortunately, the door of the public library is locked. I saw a telephone in the museum next door, so I contacted it. The other party is Ms. Zhang. She told me that as long as you pay the tour guide fee of 100, you can open the door of Gong Zhan and explain Gong Chuan. Think about it, I really need to go in and have a look, so I agreed.
Before Ms. Zhang came, she decided to walk across the street.
In the alley, the style is completely different from the road, and it is really the style of the ancient town. Here, there is a little Mazu Tempel. There is also a so-called seven-star ancient well. It is said that there are seven ancient wells in the ancient town arranged according to the position of the Big Dipper, and now there are only four left. The bluestone fence of each ancient well is engraved with quite large Chinese characters, such as "clear and lasting". Ms. Zhang will come soon, so she visited the museum first. What impressed her deeply was the map of Qing Dynasty preserved in Jiang Jiapu. From the ancient map, Gongchuan is a castle surrounded by water on three sides. In addition to a covered bridge, there is also a pontoon bridge next to the castle, that is, a bridge connecting ships. I have seen such a bridge in Chaozhou.
The bamboo shoot gang public stack is small, just a living room with a patio, and there are two small rooms behind the living room. On the left is the kitchen, and on the right is a small room with a bathroom, which should be the residence of the managers. It is said that there used to be a compartment where you could sleep. During the Republic of China, when Gongchuan underground party engaged in underground activities, they once met in this small carriage. There is a mirror and a green vase on the cupboard in the common room. On the ground in the middle of the living room, there is a square Danxia slate with a length of 0.6 meters and a width of 0.4 meters. There is a small stone on the slate, and the small stone is engraved with "Fair Stone". Before the opening of the bamboo shoot market every year, the leaders of the bamboo shoot guild will put their feet on the market stone in front of all bamboo shoot merchants and announce the prices of different grades of dried bamboo shoots in that year.
Seeing that I know it very carefully, Ms. Zhang took out a mysterious thing from the museum next door, a bamboo shoot statue (or bamboo statue) made of bamboo roots. It turns out that the bamboo shoot gang has its own unique belief, that is, the bamboo shoot god. This bamboo shoot god was not casually taken out by the locals. The bamboo shoot god has a flute in one hand and doesn't know what to take in the other, which needs to be tested.
Go forward from the bamboo shoot gang public stack, which is the famous Jinshi Lane in Gongchuan. Gongchuan ancient town has a profound humanistic tradition. There are two flower hunters, a dozen Jinshi and hundreds of palace officials. Such a high density of imperial examination talents actually appeared in such a deep mountain and dense forest area in central Fujian, which obviously has a lot to do with the prosperity of Fujian studies in central Fujian and the development of ancient shipping in Shaxi.
Walking through the gradually abandoned old houses, I met the blue brick gatehouse with a faintly visible style from time to time. Most of the floor tiles in the hall are old and broken into pieces. Most of the patios still have a pair of huge green jars, some of which have been broken and some of which are still intact. In good condition, the owner welded with iron bars out of caution. Many courtyard walls have collapsed. Because few people left, all kinds of flowers and plants grew up, and there were "herb gardens" everywhere. It is in this empty yard that you can find stickers on the front wall from time to time, showing off the good news of carrying or pulling tributes. Some are vague, some are as clear as yesterday. As if, you can still hear the sound of gongs and drums, the noise of the crowd and the screaming of your family. Now, hundreds of years later, the quadrangle is still there, but the personnel have changed. Only swallows whisper from time to time in the hall. It is really a swallow in front of the old auditorium.
Walking out of Jinshi Lane, you will face the city wall.
According to Yong 'an County Records (Wanli), "Gongchuan Fort is forty miles away from the city. In the thirty-six or seven years of Jiajing, thieves entered China, burned and robbed prisoners, and the people were angry and restless. The boss instructed the village to build a fortress to defend itself. The adherents of Miyagawa plan to send troops to build castles. Please report in this way and discuss in this house. The judge of this house appoints officials to supervise the creation. It is 623 feet wide and 24 feet high. "As can be seen from this passage, Gongchuan Fort was built during the Jiajing period, and the main purpose of building the fort was to defend the Guangdong civilian army in the north.
The city wall stands by the water. Due to the siltation of river mud, the wall is not as high as it was then, but the bricks on the wall are still the same. Some of the city bricks are engraved with "Gongchuan", some with "Bao Gong" and some with the name of the kiln. This is the common practice of Ming Dynasty city walls, which is used to indicate the attribution of responsibility.
Walking south along the city wall is the ancient covered bridge painted on the ancient map-Huiqing Bridge.
In front of Huiqing Bridge is the Waterfront Palace, dedicated to Mrs. Waterfront. Judging from the religious beliefs and architectural features, the eastern Fujian culture has obviously deeply influenced here. Shaxi mentioned above is one of the main sources of Minjiang River. From the point of view of water system, central Fujian should belong to a branch of Minjiang culture in a broad sense.
Linshui Palace is opposite Huiqing Bridge. Huiqing Bridge is the most distinctive covered bridge I have ever seen. First of all, its bridge is dark red, originally made of local Danxia stone. This bridge extends from Gongchuan City Wall to the surface of Feijia River. Under the bridge is the flowing water of Gong Hu River, which is turbid and in harmony with the color of the bridge. The stream will not be too far from the bridge, or it will join the clear sand stream. After confluence, Shaxi is still blue, but the turbid current of Gong Hu River has disappeared, so it is called "Huiqing".
I asked Ms. Zhang, has this Hugong River been so muddy since ancient times? The answer is yes. Ms. Zhang said with a smile that the cattle in the upstream casually lift their legs in the river, and the downstream is turbid.
Walking on Huiqing Bridge, I was shocked by the roughness of the deck. Countless Danxia stones, big or small, which have been polished by years, are spread out directly and never adhere to each other. The deck of the whole covered bridge is like this. Seen from one side of the bridge, it emits blue light like fish scales.
There is a shrine in the middle of the bridge, which enshrines a mysterious god and a water god. From the perspective of geomantic omen, this bridge may not only be used by pedestrians, or there is a saying that it has a water tail.
April 26th, 2020.
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About the author: Lin Hongdong, 1976, born in Pinghe, Zhangzhou, the founder of Luke Society, works in Xiang 'an, Xiamen.
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