First, clothing terminology
Most disciplines or majors have their own concepts and terms. Like cartographic symbols, terminology is also a language, which is often used and used for communication in the clothing industry. Terminology makes industrial production possible.
In the national standards, the basic contents of clothing terms are specified in detail. This standard is a recommended standard. In practical application, no matter its connotation or extension, it should correspond to fashion and industry habits. The interpretation of some terms has a certain locality. Fashion design is a creative conception activity. In practice, this activity runs through the whole process of enterprise activities, from market research, production conditions, enterprise strategy to artistic conception, structural modeling, sample clothes adjustment and so on. Design in a narrow sense refers to the work that designers are engaged in independently; Design in a broad sense should be the integrated effect of enterprise activities. The related terms of fashion design mentioned in the national standard belong to narrow concepts.
[Clothing style] refers to the style of clothing, usually refers to the shape factor, which is one of the modeling elements.
[Clothing modeling] refers to the overall clothing artistic effect composed of clothing modeling elements. The division of modeling elements can be divided into three elements: style, color matching and fabric. From abstract modeling, it can be divided into points, lines, surfaces, shapes, bodies, colors, qualities, lights, etc. The components are divided into shoes and hats, tops, underpants, coats, underwear, decorations and so on.
[Silhouette] is the silhouette effect of clothing. It is the first visual element of clothing style modeling, and it is the first factor to be considered in clothing style design, followed by the modeling of internal components such as dividing line, collar type, sleeve type and pocket type. Contour is an important factor in the development of fashion.
[style design drawing〕] refers to the plan that reflects the style of clothing. This form of design drawing is a basic skill that clothing professionals must master. Because it is simple to draw and easy to master, it is the basic method to express clothing styles in the industry.
[clothing effect drawing〕] refers to a drawing that shows the effect of wearing clothes at a specific time and place. Business owners should learn to read clothing renderings. Clothing renderings usually include body dress drawings, design ideas, fabrics and simple financial analysis.
[clothing cutting drawing〕] that is, the clothing style is decomposed and expanded into a plane cutting method with special lines and symbols such as curve, straight, oblique and arc. The popular cutting drawing methods in China mainly include China proportional cutting method and Japanese prototype cutting method. Supplementary explanatory diagram.
[Clothing structure line〕] refers to the line on the clothing pattern, which indicates the change of cutting and sewing structure of clothing parts. According to the thickness, the lines on the cutting map can be divided into two categories: one is thin lines (including drawing auxiliary lines, dimensioning lines, bisecting lines, etc.); The other is the thick solid line (representing the structural line made by cutting). According to the national standard, the thickness of the thin thread is 0.2--0.3cm; The thickness of thick thread is 0.6--0.9cm.
Terminology of clothing products industry
There are two main methods in clothing categories:
One is classified according to the system of designers, and the other is classified according to the system of production organization.
In fact, it is difficult for the same enterprise to produce all kinds of clothing at the same time. The market positioning, raw material organization, enterprise production technology and management mode, business channel and network, equipment to be purchased, marketing strategy and financial settlement mode are all different, so the production and management characteristics of each product should be fully considered when choosing the production product structure.
[clothing〕] the general term for articles that decorate the human body. Including clothing, shoes, hats, socks, gloves, scarves, ties, bags, parasols, hair accessories and so on.
[clothing] products that are worn on the human body for protection and decoration are synonymous with "clothes" and "clothes". In ancient China, it was called "the coat is under the petticoat". The effect of clothing depends on three factors: the wearing object, the clothing shape and the wearing environment.
[Fashion] A novel and fashionable fashion that is accepted by most people in a certain time and region. If it is still the first time for a small number of people to wear it, it is called trendy fashion. Clothing can be divided into popular fashion and stereotyped clothing according to fashion. Stereotyped clothing is a relatively fixed clothing style after popular screening, such as suit, tunic suit, jacket and cheongsam. Fashion has a strong periodicity, which can be divided into gestation period, germination period, growth period, maturity period and decline period. With the improvement of social culture and consumption level, the epidemic cycle will become shorter and shorter. The price difference of the same fashion in a certain period may be great, so people say "fashion impermanence", which is changeable, likes the new and hates the old, and it is unpredictable, but it can also best reflect the cultural and artistic accomplishment and wearing level of designers and wearers.
[Ready-to-wear] According to the series standards of sizes and specifications stipulated by the state, the clothes made by industrialized mass production are called ready-made clothes.
[clothing resolving drawing〕] refers to the schematic diagram showing the internal and external structural relationship of a certain part of clothing. Exploded views are usually used as clothes for style design. The ready-to-wear rate is one of the signs that indicate the level of clothing industrial production and clothing consumption structure in a country or region.
[custom-made clothes〕] refers to clothes made in one piece according to the individual situation of the specific wearer. This is the way most garment shops operate. In foreign countries, the business mode of custom-made clothing is also called personalized clothing design. Usually, it is necessary to choose fabric colors and determine clothing styles according to the wearer's personal body shape, skin color, occupation, temperament, hobbies, etc., and the fees are usually high. In China, many customers customize clothes for saving money or special reasons. High-end custom-made clothing is absent in the current market, mainly because the operator is required to know some knowledge of clothing design.
The characteristics of flour accessories are also an important basis for enterprises to list finished products, because flour accessories define the supply channels, technological characteristics and market price of enterprises. According to the characteristics of flour accessories, it can be divided into the following categories:
Woolen garments〕 are garments made of pure wool and wool blended fabrics.
[cotton garments Cotton Garments] Clothing made of cotton and cotton blended fabrics.
Silk garments〕 clothing made of natural silk, rayon and synthetic silk fabrics.
[chemical fibre garments〕] garments made of various chemical fiber fabrics.
Fur/leather garments〕 A garment made of fur or leather.
[down clothing] clothing filled with down. [Artificial fur clothing] Clothing made of natural or chemical fibers imitating various fur fabrics.
According to the object of wearing, it can be divided into the following categories:
Men's wear, referred to as men's wear, is the clothing worn by adult men.
Women's Wear, referred to as women's wear, is a dress worn by adult women.
Children's clothing, referred to as children's clothing, is suitable for children's wear〕. Including baby clothing, children's clothing, children's clothing, children's clothing, children's clothing and so on. It also includes campus costumes for primary and secondary schools.
[Professional clothes] Professional clothes are the clothes worn by members of a community or industry to show the overall image and meet the action requirements of workers when they work in a social environment, so as to achieve the goals of the community. Professional clothes can be divided into three categories: first, professional logo clothes, such as post and telecommunications clothes, railway clothes, customs clothes, civil aviation clothes, military uniforms, tax clothes, traffic supervision clothes, business management clothes, school uniforms, etc. The second is labor protection clothing, which refers to clothing that provides convenience and protection for employees in special industries at work. Such as radiation-resistant clothing, diving suit, miner's clothing, steel-making clothing, road maintenance work clothes, oil work clothes, fireman's clothes, etc. The third is professional fashion, which refers to the non-uniform fashion-style professional suits worn by the "pink-collar class" of urban professional women. Most of them have bright colors and simple and generous styles, which can fully show the intelligence and competence of professional women.
Terminology of finished products of jackets
Western-style clothes〕, also known as a suit, is a form of western-style coat. The left and right rows of buttons are different, which can be divided into single-breasted suits and double-breasted suits; According to the different number of grains, it can be divided into one button suit, two button suits and three button suits. The number of grains and rows can have different combinations, such as single-row two-button suit, double-row three-button suit, etc. According to the different shapes of the barge head, it can be divided into flat barge head suit, gun barge head suit and olive collar suit. Suit has become an internationally accepted men's dress.
Vest, also known as vest or waistcoat, is a collarless sleeveless and short coat. The main function is to keep the front and back chest areas warm and facilitate hands' activities. It can be worn inside the coat or outside the underwear. The main varieties are suit vests, cotton vests, down vests and wool vests of various shapes.
Cowboy's clothes〕 was originally a coat made of canvas worn by Americans during the development of the west and the golden age. Later, through film and television publicity and celebrity effect, it developed into clothes for daily life. /kloc-it was popular all over the world in the 0' s and 970' s, and now it has become a global stereotyped clothing. Its fabrics are mostly made of strong woolen cloth, and the styles have been developed to various styles such as denim jacket, jeans, denim shirt, denim vest, denim vest skirt, denim children's wear and so on. Jeans are deeply loved by people all over the world because of their durability, leisure and roughness. Although its overall style is relatively modular, its detailed modeling and decoration are constantly interpreted and changed with the cycle and rhythm of fashion.
Zhongshan coat〕, also known as Zhongshan suit. Named after the style that Dr. Sun Yat-sen once wore. The main features are stand-up collar, predecessor of four Ming patch pocket, simple and capable style.
[Military casual clothes] A coat that imitates the style of a military uniform.
Youth clothes, also known as the May 4th Young Students' Clothes, are shirts with stand-neck, three-pocket or three-patch pocket styles.
[jacket jacket] refers to a jacket with short length, loose bust, tight cuffs and tight hem. A jacket is a transliteration of English, which means short.
Hunting wear〕 was originally a suit suitable for hunting, which has the structure of dew prevention and bullet bag waist. Now it has developed into a jacket with multiple pockets and a back slit worn in daily life. Hunting clothes can be divided into short sleeves and long sleeves, and summer clothes and spring and autumn clothes.
[shirt shirt] is divided into men's shirts and women's shirts according to the different wearing objects. According to different uses, it can be divided into traditional shirts with suits and casual shirts worn outside. The former is a style worn between underwear and coat, and its armholes are small to facilitate wearing a coat; Because the latter is worn alone, the armhole can be large, easy to move, and there are many colors.
Chinese and Western-style coat: A coat with a Chinese collar and sleeves, the front of which can be buttoned or buttoned, is a style evolved on the basis of traditional styles in China. If it is a sleeve, it is called a Chinese coat.
[cotton padded coat〕] All coats with thermal insulation materials such as cotton wadding, acrylic cotton, space cotton and camel hair are called cotton jackets. Cotton-padded jacket can be divided into Chinese cotton-padded jacket and western cotton-padded jacket. The traditional way of wearing cotton-padded jacket and smock is gradually disappearing, and it is rare for wearers under middle age. Instead, it is a coat-type cotton-padded jacket with fashionable appearance, leisure and comfort. Its length varies from short to waist and long to ankle, which has been marked with a strong brand of the times and adapted to the rhythm of people's modern life.
[down coat〕] A coat filled with down stuffing. Because of its strong thermal insulation, it is mostly worn by people in cold areas and is also commonly used by polar investigators. The down jacket is large and round, so it is not suitable to show women's lines. Instead, bright colors are used to reflect the aesthetic feeling. The appearance of ultra-thin down jacket will bring new beauty to urban women.
Terms of finished products downloaded
Underdress refers to clothes worn below the waist, mainly including various skirts and trousers. There are two mannequins, one is the frustum model used in designing skirts, and the other is the saddle model used in designing trousers.
Terms of finished skirt:
[vest skirt Jumper skirt〕] refers to a skirt with a collarless sleeveless vest structure on the upper body. This style is mostly adopted by middle school campus clothes.
[bias skirt〕] refers to a skirt that spreads diagonally from the waist to the hem in a "'"shape. When cutting oblique skirts, due to the sufficient relaxation of hip circumference, hip circumference is generally not taken as the control size, and only waist circumference and skirt length can be cut. What people usually call a four-piece skirt is close to the shape of a diagonal skirt, but because the hem is moderate, it is still necessary to measure and control the size of the hip circumference.
[fishtail skirt] refers to a skirt with a fishtail shape. The waist, hips and middle thighs are in a fit shape, and the hem is gradually released downwards to form a fishtail shape. The position where the fish tail is started to unfold and the size of the fish tail to unfold depend on individual needs. In order to ensure the uniformity of the three-dimensional body of the "fish belly" and the wave potential of the "fish tail", the fishtail skirts mostly adopt more than six structural forms, such as six fishtail skirts, eight fishtail skirts and twelve fishtail skirts.
[Miniskirt] Also known as miniskirt. This is a short skirt with a length in the middle of the thigh and above. It is just a skirt shape that defines the length. Its shape can be tight-fitting, trumpet-shaped or pleated skirt-shaped.
[pleated skirt] refers to a skirt that is pleated at the waist. According to the design of pleats, it can be divided into broken pleated skirts and regular pleated skirts. The pleats can be large or small, more or less, and can be shaped in pairs or downwind pleats.
Also known as tower skirt. Refers to a skirt whose body is connected by multi-level horizontal pieces and pleated, and its shape is like a tower. According to the layer distribution of the tower, it can be divided into regular tower skirts and irregular tower skirts. In the irregular tower skirt, the width of each tower layer can be changed as needed, such as wide-narrow-wide, narrow-wide-narrow, narrow-wide-wider and other combinations.
Barrel skirt, tube skirt〕) is also called uniform skirt, straight skirt or straight skirt. Its modeling feature is that it starts from the hip of the fit, and the side seam naturally hangs in a tube and tube shape.
[Cheongsam skirt, hob skirt, slim skirt] usually refers to a skirt with slits on the left and right sides. Because it retains the slim and fit style of cheongsam, the skirt is generally below the knee, the hem is slightly retracted, and the slit length is subject to meeting the basic leg activity.
[tailored skirt〕] Also known as a suit skirt. It is usually worn with a suit jacket or shirt. In the cutting structure, the waist and buttocks are often combined by methods such as shrinking and pleating, and the length changes up and down at the knees. In order to facilitate activities, pleats or slits are often made at the front and back.
Terminology of finished trousers
Trousers mainly refer to trousers worn with a suit jacket. Because trousers are mainly worn in offices and social occasions, we should pay more attention to the coordination with the shape on the premise of comfort and naturalness. When cutting, the amount of relaxation is moderate, giving people a sense of peace and stability. Pants have been basically internationalized and standardized in production technology and modeling. The process of trousers and shorts is basically the same, and the length varies above the knee, so you can choose according to your own needs.
[Chinese pants] refers to pants with wide sides, large waist, large crotch, no side seam division and no front and rear points when wearing; It is a traditional costume in China.
Bibpants refers to pants with shoulder straps at the waist. The suspenders in trousers are only connected by two straps, but in overalls and modern fashion, there are many chest patches.
Riding breeches〕 refers to the trousers worn when riding a horse. The overall costume of equestrian athletes has become a fixed style in the world. Due to the functional needs of riding, their crotch and thighs are very loose, but they are gradually tightened below the knee and trouser legs, forming a special outline.
Knickerbockers, Knickers, Bloomers, Pantalets 】 refers to a kind of trousers with wide straight tube, tight leg opening and lantern-like appearance in trouser legs. From the design, it can be regarded as a kind of "imitation modeling" and "imitation naming". Bloomers are relaxed and comfortable, and are mostly worn for leisure. Chinese training pants and sweatpants often use this style.
[Skirt pants] have a crotch like pants, and the lower opening of the pants is relaxed, which looks like a skirt. It is a combination of pants and skirts. It retains the advantages of trousers, such as being convenient for cycling, and has the elegance, romance and femininity of skirts.
[overalls〕] refers to the clothes in which the top and trousers are connected as a whole. Because it is connected from top to bottom, it has strong tightness to human body, and it is mostly selected for labor protection suits of special types of work. There are also jumpsuits that connect hats with shoes and socks, which are more airtight and suitable for radiation and chemical protection personnel.
[bell-bottoms pants] refers to trousers with flared legs. In terms of structural design, on the basis of trousers, the vertical crotch is slightly shorter, and the relaxation of hip circumference is appropriately reduced, so that the hip and middle crotch (near the knee) can fit, and the trousers mouth can be enlarged as needed from below the knee. According to the degree of enlargement of trousers mouth, it is divided into large bell-bottoms and small bell-bottoms and micro bell-bottoms The length of bell bottoms mostly covers the length of the upper.
Terminology of whole-body assembly products
The so-called whole-body finished product refers to the clothing style in which the upper and lower parts are connected as a whole.
[dress one-piece dress〕] refers to a one-piece garment with a top and a lower skirt connected into a single body. Dress is known as the "queen of style" in various styles, which is unpredictable, the most diverse and the most popular style for women. There are children's dresses and young women's dresses according to different objects. Almost all the factors that can be changed in the blouse and skirt can be combined to form the style of the dress. Dresses can also form various contours and waist positions according to the needs of styling.
Qipao, dress〕) is also called Chinese cheongsam. Its main structural features are stand-up collar, right big belly, tight waist, swinging down slit and so on. Cheongsam is a traditional robe for women in China, which began with the dress of the flag bearer in the Qing Dynasty. After the Revolution of 1911 and modern improvement, the traditional cheongsam's clothing technology has been preserved, which makes it more in line with the performance of the human body. This ratio is very suitable for oriental people with flat chest, low hip position and long upper body. Cheongsam conveys modern humanism and the unique rhythmic beauty of the East.
Bridal dress [Bridal veil] refers to the clothes worn by women when they get married. The traditional bridal gown in China is a big red Chinese suit. Nowadays, the bridal gowns worn in cities are mostly from Europe and America.